Synthetic leather has improved enough that a photograph won’t tell you much. These are the checks that will — some you can do online before ordering, others once the jacket is in your hands.
Before you order
Read the material description literally. “Genuine leather” is a real grade, but a low one — it’s the split layer left after the top grain is removed. “Full-grain” and “top-grain” are the terms you want. “PU leather”, “faux leather”, “vegan leather” and “leatherette” are all synthetic. “Bonded leather” is leather scraps glued to a backing and will delaminate.
Watch for vague language. Listings that say “leather look”, “leather finish” or simply describe the colour without naming the material are usually avoiding the word for a reason.
Check the price against the claim. A full-grain cowhide jacket cannot be made and shipped for £60. If a price seems impossible for the stated material, it is.
Once it arrives
The grain test
Real leather has an irregular grain. Pores, wrinkles and small variations appear at random and never repeat. Synthetic leather is embossed from a plate, so the pattern repeats at regular intervals. Look closely across a large flat panel like the back — if you can spot the same mark twice, it’s embossed.
The smell test
Reliable and immediate. Real leather has a rich organic smell. Synthetics smell of plastic or chemicals. This one is hard to fake and hard to mistake.
The press test
Press your thumb firmly into the surface. Real leather creases and wrinkles around the pressure point, then slowly recovers. Synthetic leather resists, then springs back immediately without wrinkling.
The edge test
Find a cut edge — inside a pocket opening or at the hem. Real leather has a rough, fibrous edge. Synthetic leather has a clean, smooth cut, and you can often see the fabric backing layer.
The temperature test
Rest your palm flat on the surface for a few seconds. Real leather warms to your body temperature and feels comfortable. Synthetic stays cool and slightly clammy because it doesn’t breathe.
The water drop test
Put a single drop of water on an inconspicuous spot. Real leather absorbs it slowly and darkens; the mark fades as it dries. Synthetic beads it on the surface indefinitely. Use one drop, somewhere hidden, and only if the other tests have left you uncertain.
Signs of poor construction
Even genuine leather can be badly made. Check for unbranded zips, loose threads at the shoulder seams, a lining that’s stitched rather than properly attached, uneven panel matching, and hardware that feels light or rattles. Any of these suggests corners cut elsewhere too.
If you’ve been misled
Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, goods sold in the UK must match their description. If a jacket was advertised as leather and isn’t, you’re entitled to a refund, and that right sits above whatever the retailer’s own returns policy says. Keep the listing, the description and your order confirmation.
For online purchases you also have 14 days from delivery to cancel under the Consumer Contracts Regulations, regardless of whether anything is wrong with the item.