Leather has almost no stretch across the chest and shoulders, which makes sizing less forgiving than it is for a wool coat or a denim jacket. Get it wrong and there’s no adjusting it later. Here’s how to measure properly and how to interpret what you find.
Standard UK sizing
| UK Size | Chest (in) | Chest (cm) | Approx. EU |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 34–36 | 86–91 | 44 |
| S | 36–38 | 91–97 | 46 |
| M | 38–40 | 97–102 | 48 |
| L | 40–42 | 102–107 | 50 |
| XL | 42–44 | 107–112 | 52 |
| XXL | 44–46 | 112–117 | 54 |
| 3XL | 46–48 | 117–122 | 56 |
How to measure
Chest. Wearing just a t-shirt, run a soft tape around the fullest part of your chest, under the arms and across the shoulder blades. Keep it level all the way round and snug without compressing. Breathe normally and take the reading on the out-breath.
Shoulders. Measure across your back from the bony point of one shoulder to the other. This is the measurement that can’t be altered on a finished jacket, so if you’re between sizes it should be the deciding factor.
Sleeve. From the shoulder point, down the outside of a slightly bent arm, to the wrist bone.
Length. From the base of your neck straight down your back to where you want the hem to finish. A biker or racer normally sits at the top of the hip; a bomber slightly above.
Garment measurement vs body measurement
This trips up more online orders than anything else. Some retailers list the jacket’s own flat measurement; others list the body size it’s cut to fit. A jacket listed at 40″ as a garment measurement will be tight on a 40″ chest, because there’s no ease built in.
If a listing doesn’t say which it is, ask before ordering. As a rule of thumb, a well-cut jacket has two to four inches of ease over the body measurement for a close fit, and four to six for a relaxed one.
Sizing by style
- Biker — cut close by design. Size up if you’re between sizes or plan to wear a jumper underneath.
- Bomber — the blouson shape is naturally roomier. True to size.
- Café racer — slim through the body. True to size for a sharp fit; size up only if layering.
- Shearling — the lining takes up real internal volume. Always size up.
How a leather jacket should fit
Slightly snug when new. Leather relaxes and moulds to you over the first few months, particularly across the back and at the elbows, so a jacket that feels perfect on day one will feel loose by month six.
Three checks in front of a mirror: the shoulder seam should sit exactly at the edge of your shoulder, not overhanging it. You should be able to zip the jacket fully over a t-shirt and still cross your arms in front of you. And the sleeve should reach your wrist bone with your arms down — leather sleeves ride up when you raise your arms, which is normal.
If the leather pulls into horizontal creases across the chest when zipped, it’s too small. If there’s a visible gap under the arms when your arms are down, it’s too big.